Highway 261 Utah
Karen and I are having a love affair - with a road!!! Highway 261 in Southern Utah.
Definitely not for the faint of heart. 6425 feet above sea level dropping 1100 feet in under 3 miles on hairpin curves at a 10% grade. Did I mention gravel road, barely 2 lanes wide and NO guardrails. 5mph? How about 3mph just to be on the safe side? Stay on the designated roads? OK sure. No problem. Where else would I want to go? Where the "designated road" ends a 1100 foot cliff starts - straight down!! Did I mention - NO guardrails? Oh yes, I did.
Your worst nightmare is that a semi is coming at you from the other direction.
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Highway 261 (on Cedar Mesa) is located in southern Utah. It runs 34 miles connecting Hwy 163 just north of Mexican Hat, with Hwy 95, just east of Natural Bridges National Monument. The highway is part of the Utah section of the Trail of the Ancients, a National Scenic Byway. It includes steep switchbacks as it traverses the Moki Dugway.
Year after year we try to get the perfect picture of the "feeling" we get driving up and down hwy 261. Year after year we fail. We have some pretty awesome pictures. There is no disputing that - but there is just no way a picture can capture the butterflies, the heart flutters, weak knees and, of course, all our giggles, our ooohhhs and ahhhhs and those OMG's!
2002 Discovery (Desert Ghost Towns)
This was the year we discovered hwy 261 by a unexplained strange turn of events. We left the Moab area, traveled south on hwy 191 and stopped to pick up subs at Blanding.
About 5 miles past the hwy 95 junction, just south of Blanding, Karen noticed that hwy 95 connected to hwy 261 which looked like a good road and it would connect us to hwy 163 right at Valley of the Gods where we were going. We turned around, backtracked, stopped for our picnic, and headed west on hwy 95. Then south on hwy 261.
This portion of the hwy is a long flat plateau and it felt like we ere driving at the top of the world - we were.
Soon we started to see signs about curves, switchbacks, no vehicles towing, no trucks, and no busses and we knew we were heading into something very unusual.
When we arrived at the top of the Moki Dugway we couldn't believe the view overlooking the valley - and the road we had to take to get the bottom of it. We started down the road and the rest is history. This is definitely "our special road" and we have managed to go back to it every year.
2003 (Eastern & SW USA)
We reached Valley of the Gods from the west side. We didn't drive through Valley of the Gods this year - just pulled off and drove a little way in to look around and headed for the base of Hwy 261.
We had to make sure our route included hwy 261 so we could drive "up" it. It was just as much a thrill as the drive down - except the "straight down 1100 foot cliff" was now on my side of the car.
Thanks goodness we were driving hugged up to the mountain side this time. If I had been hanging near the edge I don't think I could have driven it without having a heart attack - or at least wetting my pants!!
We met a group of five traveling bikers at the top who were equally as thrilled as us. We took some pictures of them. Unfortunately the pictures were on their cameras and we neglected to get emails so they could send us some.
2005 We're Back! (West Coast & Redwood NP)
State Route 261 is located entirely within south-central San Juan County, Utah. It runs 34 miles north, from the junction of U.S. Route 163 three - miles north of Mexican Hat, to the junction with State Route 95, just east of Natural Bridges National Monument.
The highway is part of the Utah section of the Trail of the Ancients, a National Scenic Byway. It includes steep switchbacks as it traverses the Moki Dugway.
The route crosses Cedar Mesa finally plunging down the dugway at an 10% grade, revealing sweeping views of Valley of the Gods, stripes of color in the rocks of the San Juan River Canyon known as the Navajo Tapestry, and distant Monument Valley. The warning signs state "10% Grades - 5 MPH Switchbacks - Narrow Gravel Road for 3 Miles".
This should give you a hint to what lies ahead but it really doesn't. Your curiosity takes you to the top of the butte and then the view takes your breath away.
"Moki" is a local term for the ancient Puebloan people who inhabited the Colorado Plateau hundreds of years ago. "Dugway" is a term used to describe a roadway carved from a hillside.
The Moki Dugway is literally carved from the cliff face and talus slope on the edge of Cedar Mesa. A "talus slope" is a steep, rocky slope formed by an accumulation of loose rock fragments and boulders that have broken off from a cliff face above,
I am deathly afraid of heights and apparently Karen is too - when sitting in a vehicle. Some primal fear of not being in control as a passenger, looking over the edge through the car window, turns her stomach and knees to jello.
Out of a car, she is able to walk right to the edge and look over which is something I cannot do. We literally scare ourselves silly and laugh so hard the tears run down our cheeks.
One of these days Karen is going to drive this road and make ME sit on the outside edge. Although I don't relish the thought of sitting in the passenger seat, I can hardly wait to see HER face as she drives it! It will be worth it.
2006 (Death Valley)
It wasn't quite dark, so we decided play around on Hwy 261 before stopping in Bluff; but, true to form, we found somewhere else to explore. After driving up and down Hwy 261, we went up again because Karen wanted to investigate a road we'd been ignoring for several years. The road is called Muley Point Road and I'm sure it is aptly named. Definitely fit for mules. Oh My Gawd.
Muley Road
Muley Road seemed to go on forever and we were thinking this is likely a waste of time, when suddenly the road ended and the world dropped 1200 feet into a magnificent gorge.
We were overlooking part of the Goosenecks of San Juan River in the eastern extreme of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. We could see forever and "no railings". Once again I was 100 feet from the edge taking pictures of Karen peeking over the edge.
2007 (New Orleans)
I wish there was a way to put a feeling into a photograph!! Highway 261 is definitely a "feeling". No matter how often I describe it, I'll never convey the emotion or the sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach as you crest the hill and you see what's in front of you.
Traveling this road has become a focal point in all our trips. We have somehow managed to include the area touring from both east and west coasts. I think we've secretly claimed Hwy 261 as our own personal road. I'm sure the state of Utah would like their taxes but they'll have to catch us first.
I absolutely love the signs here. The spelling of Mokee Dugway (Moki Dugway) changes from the top of the butte to the bottom. It says not recommended for trucks over 10,000 lbs. and the next sign shows a tractor trailer going down the hill.
It also says not recommended for RV's and we've seen several trying to round those curves. The drivers either can't read or think the 30 ft. beast they're in is called a minivan. Backing up is sometimes the only option.
This route provides some excellent scenery and some nice overlooks, but it is not for those who are afraid of heights. Karen and I have come to claim it as our own special road.
2008 (Tombstone)
The Trail of the Ancients is a collection of scenic byways in the American Southwest that pass through Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. The trail includes archaeological and geological sites that provide insight into the lives of the Ancestral Puebloans and other indigenous peoples.
Moki Dugway is part of the 116 miles federally designated National Scenic Byway known as The Trail of the Ancients.
The Trail, in the heart of the Colorado Plateau, circles through the ancient Puebloan (Anasazi) Country. It includes Hovenweep National Monument, Edge of the Cedars State Park and Museum, Butler Wash and Mule Canyon Indian ruins, Natural Bridges National Monument, Grand Gulch Primitive Area, Valley of the Gods, Gooseneck State Park, Monument Valley, Historic Bluff, Three Kiva Pueblo and Four Corners Monument.
Arriving back on highway 261 is a good feeling for us. As much as it never seems to change - it really never stays the same. Karen even notices when some rocks have moved or a part of the road is changed - sometimes made wider and sometimes missing a shoulder.
This year we noticed a wreck over the cliff and we are absolutely sure we never saw that before. Whether it was a prop or an actual accident, it reminds us that although the road is stimulating, exciting and fun to drive - it can also be very dangerous.
Highway 261 makes you feel like you are on top of the world - and you are!! We never tire of it. It was early evening so there was very little traffic on the road.
Because it was early evening there was very little traffic on the road. We could stop and view from just about anywhere. After driving up and down a couple of times the sun was starting to set and it was time to call it a day. We planned to visit highway 261 again before we left the area.
2008 Nightmare on Hwy 261
At the bottom of the Moki Dugway on Hwy261 there is a turnaround where those less adventurous can about-face instead of climbing the butte. A fully loaded tractor trailer with a secondary pup full of sheep was pulling back onto the road from the turnout so we pulled into turnout to give him room to pass - assuming he had mistakenly taken a wrong road.
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| OMG What was that? |
Half way up the butte - we came upon two cars of women and kids, one of which was attempting to back down the treacherous gravel road. A glance to the right gave us the explanation why someone would back up at this point.
Rounding the narrow bend on the next curve - heading in our direction was a fully loaded tractor trailer. We were stunned as there was no doubt the clearly marked road restriction signs posted were intended for this type of vehicle. We suddenly realized that the first truck we'd seen at the bottom had not been turning around but had also just come down the butte.
The truck passed our 3 cars, precariously pulled off to the side and Karen yelled at the two men "Are you crazy" and they laughed as the drove by leaving a cloud of dust. Out came the camera and his license plate was recorded. Maybe the Utah Dept of Transport won't think it's so funny.
2009 (Eastern)
We're back! Sometimes we have a hard time stopping ourselves from jumping around in our seat in anticipation of the drive on this highway. We certainly have a hard time staying in the car.
This sign with the first curve in the background is like an open door invitation and the cliffs that follow for the next 3 miles are like comforting arms around us.
The road is always the same but only in the way it affects us. Each year we notice changes - some small some major. Every year we take more and more pictures and we are still in awe of the beauty.
2009 Painted Desert from Hwy 261
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| Junction US 163 & Hwy 261 |
One of the best views of the Painted Desert is seen from the junction of Hwy 261 and Hwy 160. The Painted Desert is an expanse of badlands, hills, mesas and buttes in the north central area of Arizona.
The strip of land 160 miles long and 10 to 35 miles wide extends from the Grand Canyon to the Petrified Forest. Irregularly eroded layers of red and yellow sediment and clay have left striking bands of color.
2009 Willie's Cliff Hanger
This year we should have locked Willie in the barn!
We stopped at the top lookout and Karen got out to take a photo using Willie in the foreground. She set him on the abutment, took a few steps and when she turned back, he was gone. A gust of wind blew him over the edge. Sitting in the car and watching the whole scene seemed surreal. The look on Karen's face was priceless.
OK - not funny. We have a problem. Willie is hanging precariously by a twig. If he gets dislodged from the twig (and all it would take is another wind gust), it is game over - 1000 feet straight down type of game over.
He was out of arm's reach, we didn't have anything long enough to try to hook on to him, and there is absolutely no way either of us is going to crawl down that ledge. After all, we were not going to risk our lives over a stuffed horse.
And then .....
Along came Jones, tall thin Jones
Slow walkin' Jones, slow talkin' Jones
Along came long, lean, lanky Jones
Well, we don't know what his name was but believe it not, this hero cowboy crawled over the barrier and down the edge and rescued Willie. When we tried to stop him, all he said was "I climb mountains - this is nothing". After all was said and done though, he did say "this thing blows over again ladies, you're on your own".
Karen heeded his words and promptly put Willie back on the abutment, but this time where the rocks behind didn't drop off 100 feet straight down.
With Willie safe and sound and our cowboy driving off into the sunset, we bid goodbye to Hwy 261 for another year.
We followed Hwy 261 north to Hwy 95, east to Blanding to connect with Hwy 191 north to I-70. We spent the night in Salina, Utah.
2010 (No Destination)
We didn't spend too much time dawdling in the Valley of the Gods and hit Hwy 261 around noon - plenty of time to catch the Halls Crossing Ferry across Lake Powell.
We stopped several times to take pictures and this time we were careful to make sure Willie was not going to fall over the cliff.
After all these years, we think we finally got the picture that really portrays the feeling of hanging on the edge. Karen literally stretched her arm out the window and in front of the windshield and aimed it where she was looking.
Yes folks, that is a straight 1000 foot drop over the side of that gravel edge. No guardrails, no trees, no fencing, not even a convenient boulder placed to discourage gawkers.
Eight years of going up and down this road and our stomachs still flip like a pancake on a hot griddle. And we love every minute of it!!!
At the top of Hwy 261 we passed a car from Alberta and couple of miles down the road curiosity got the better of us and we stopped and flagged them down to find out where in Alberta they were from. Edmonton. We didn't chat with them long as traffic was coming up behind us on the highway. It felt funny seeing another Albertan that far from home. What were they doing on "our" road anyway?
2011 (Spring Breakout)
I wasn't in so much of a hurry that I would miss Hwy 261. After lunch and gas at Monument Valley I arrived at Hwy 261 from the west. Willie wanted to get out at Willie's Overlook - but I locked him in the car. There was no way I could take pictures and hold him at the same time!!
With my Hwy261 fix complete, the push was now on to get home. I arrived at Torrey about 5 pm. I was tempted to stop for the night but decided to spend the next 4 hours of sunlight putting on miles. I stopped at the Chuckwagon Store to stock up on snacks. It was dark when I finally reached Ogden.
2011 Painted Desert (St. Augustine)
Once we reached Bluff, we checked in at the Desert Rose Inn and went to Twin Rocks Cafe for supper and of course, shopping, then went to play on Hwy 261 until dark.
We stopped to catch a picture of the painted desert. As I turned back to snap the photo of the sun hitting the hills behind us, a group of bikers whizzed by. It turned out to be a great picture.
2011 (St. Augustine)
We drove up and down the road for well over half an hour before any other vehicles even came along. This allowed us to take pictures of every angle of scenery and landscape possible.
We hung on to Willie though with a death grip. Going over the cliff is not an option for him any more. It isn't likely we would get a second hero to come along and rescue him.
We played till dark and then it was finally time to go back to the Inn We had a lot of time to make up and needed an early start in the morning.
Catching the moon on the way back to Bluff seemed like a fitting end to a great day (well, except for the no-see-ums that attacked me along the Dolores River!!)
2012 (Spring Breakout)
I Love This Road!! It wouldn't be right if I didn't play on hwy 261 for a while. I drove down, up, and down again before saying goodbye and heading to hwy 163. I'm by myself this year so Willie had to ride shotgun.
There were some changes that I noticed. The area where there is a large pull off just after the turn seems quite a bit smaller this year. Couldn't swear by it, but I think it was missing a large chunk.
2013 We're Back!! (Western Giants)
We have more pictures of hwy 261 that any other place we're travelled. With the exception of 2004, we have been on this road every year since 2002.
I've been on it several times on extra trips. We don't even try to explain any more how this road makes us feel - it just does.
Utah State Route 261 is located in south-central San Juan County. It runs 34 miles north, from the junction of U.S. Route 163 north of Mexican Hat, to the junction with State Route 95, just east of Natural Bridges National Monument.
The highway is part of the Utah section of the Trail of the Ancients, a National Scenic Byway. It includes steep switchbacks as it traverses the Moki Dugway.
The Moki Dugway was constructed in 1958 by Texas Zinc, a mining company, to transport uranium ore from the "Happy Jack" mine in Fry Canyon, UT. to the processing mill in Mexican Hat.
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| Willie's Cliff |
Willie's Cliff
We stopped at the top to let Willie view the cliff he dangled from in 2009. We put him in a different position (one that had a ledge on the other side) and held on to him tightly just in case he decided to take a flying leap for old times sake.
It was a very wide ledge - I was actually standing on the other side of the guard rail.
2015 (Quilt Away)
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| Highway 261 Utah |
Gee, I wonder why I opted for this route. Hwy 261 is officially known as Moki Dugway, part of the Trail of the Ancients. Turning onto hwy 261 from hwy 163 makes my heart start to beat a little bit faster.
I absolutely love this road. I love the rush it gives me. Hwy 261 isn't just a road - it's a feeling. For 14 years now, we have been trying to capture on camera what it feels like to be on this road - without success. Anyone travelling up or down it leaves with the same sense of bewilderment and awe. It is simply WOW! Highway 261 Utah - Wikipedia
Trail of the Ancients
The Trail of the Ancients is a National Scenic Byway located in the states of Colorado and Utah. The route highlights the archaeological and cultural history of southwestern Native American peoples, and traverses the widely diverse geological landscape of the Four Corners region.
It was the first National Scenic Byway that was designated solely for its archaeological sites. The entire route is approximately 480 miles long. Trail of the Ancients - Wikipedia
2016 (Quilt Away)
After having driven up at dusk and down in the dark last night, you'd think we'd be rather nonchalant about the overlooks, but no such luck.
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| Hwy 261 |
Karen was still leaning into the drivers seat and gripping the door ledge as if it was going to stop her from falling over the cliff. I haven't quite understood how she can walk to the edge and look straight down but can't sit in the car and look out the window.
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| Birdie - August 2007 Two Huge Rocks |
There was one new fallen rock at the base of the road where we usually stop for photos. The two massive rocks from prior trips were gone and replaced by a small slab hanging precariously over the cliff and seemingly supported by a small tree.
We took a couple of pictures so we can continue to compare the scene on future trips. Once we reached the top of the butte and continued north SR 95, we ran into another unique sight.
There were a couple of cows on the road, which we slowed for and suddenly out of the bushes, came the whole herd, followed by 4 riders on horseback cracking a whips and driving them up the highway.
They waved us ahead and said the only way to continue was to literally push them out of the way. It is a truly special sight to be at the south end of a northbound cow gently persuading it to get the heck out of the way.
2018 (Quilt Away)
The Valley of the Gods road exits unto Hwy 261. I never tire of this road. The adrenaline rush hits me every time I drive up or down it. Driving up is a bit harder because I feel like I'm dangling on the edge.
Going down, the driver gets to hug the inside with the whole width of the car to the right. Either way, I still can't look.
Something is Missing
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| Doreen & Willie 2011 - Rock Now Gone |
Many of the landmarks that existed when we first started driving this road are gone. The pull over where we used to sit on a rock and the huge bolder on the edge are completely gone. The rock disappeared a couple of years ago.
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| Karen 2011 - Huge Boulder Now Gone |
Now the boulder is gone too. Not only are these rocks gone, but the pull out is too. It is now just a widening to look around the corner. Another wide area where several cars could park is only big enough now for two or three.
2019 (Quilt Away)
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| Highway 261 |
I drove up and down the Moki Dugway as I plan to go north to Moab tomorrow. I have never seen this road in such bad shape. There must have been a lot of rain. There were huge areas where large chunks of the road had washed away.
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| Highway 261 Utah |
The ruts created by the water run-off were all the way up but the worst part was in the lower areas.
It really felt like one more rain and the whole road would wash down. Our rock and tree half up are clinging to the edge by a thread!
2023 Torrey
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